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wheel bearing issues
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77 traveler
Friday March 16 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
my truck has developed a pattern of chewing up the wheel bearings every 12 months. in apr 2010 replaced both sets of bearings and a hub. in apr 2011 i replaceded both sets of bearings a hub and a spindle. now both sides have play and need to be replaced. wont know what else is bad till i get it apart. it only has been getting wheeled 2-3 times per year, daily driver about 10-12k miles per year.

does anyone know why this would be happening?

35' tires 1/4' spacer

thanks in advance for the suggestions
john
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BIG JOHN
Friday March 16 2012
Registered Member #1095
Joined: Friday August 15 2008
Location: frazier park Ca.
Posts: 1157
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Is it both sides or just one side? Did the axle shafts come out easy or did you have to strugle to get one or both out? 1/4" spacer should not effect it that much.
If you had to fight to get the axle shaft or shafts out you may have a bent housing.
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mountainguyed67
Friday March 16 2012
Registered Member #1882
Joined: Tuesday May 10 2011
Location: Fresno,Ca
Posts: 1134
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I think you need to grease the bearings.

64 IH 1Ton,345,T34,T18,NP202,D70F chromolly axles ARB,RA-15 Detroit locker,PTO winch,on board air,on board welder,41" IROKs,crawl ratios 61:1,113:1,207:1,375:1 and still a work in progress.
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Dent
Friday March 16 2012
Registered Member #682
Joined: Thursday December 07 2006
Location: Garden Grove
Posts: 3434
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Big John I think he is talking about the front axle not the rear.... John spacers shouldn't be causing this kind of issue especially ones that small. When you install the new bearings and parts are you going back in a little later to re-torque after break in? What do the parts that come out look like, can you see that there wasn't enough lube and they are scored or do you just get pieces due to failure?

KJ6RUP
1976 Mostly stock Scout, body work by rocks....
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cornbinder
Friday March 16 2012
cornbinder
Registered Member #869
Joined: Monday November 05 2007
Location: buena park
Posts: 642
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Or maybe the spindle nut is coming loose and wearing everything out...mine would always come loose till I installed the X lock.

1978 scout II
Fully rebuilt 345
727 and dana 20 transfer case
dana 44 front w/456 gears and ARB
dana 44 rear w/456 gears and detroit
spring under for now with 4" lift springs and 33's
10,000 pound winch in front w/custom bumpers and sliders
Full cage
my scout, once ready for a junkyard, now ready for a jeep
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75scout
Saturday March 17 2012
brad spears

Registered Member #835
Joined: Friday September 14 2007
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 1704
Dues paying member of Scouts West
What brand of bearings did you use? Made in China cheapies or Timken? Did you replace the races also? After I replaced my front wheel bearings/races, I re-torqued them after 20 miles or so, which they did tighten a bit more, possibly due to the races fully seating into place. Also, what type of wheel bearing grease are you using? I don't care for that newer red grease that seems to be everywhere.

Brad
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77 traveler
Monday April 02 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
I haven't been re-torquing them wasn't aware it was necessary.
Timken bearings with synthetic grease. Grease looked fine. While I had it apart I went a little OCD on the hub and locker clean up. Should get her rolling again this week. Then go back and re-torque this time. Thanks
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75scout
Monday April 02 2012
brad spears

Registered Member #835
Joined: Friday September 14 2007
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 1704
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John,
Are you replacing the races also?

Brad
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vistammm
Tuesday April 03 2012
Registered Member #1853
Joined: Sunday March 06 2011
Location: Vista Ca
Posts: 114
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Check your u-joints for play and oil seals
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77 traveler
Tuesday April 03 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
New Timken bearings and races
Re-use oil seal. Looks new and soft.
This time regular hi temp bearing grease.
Torque to a grunt back off then tighten about 5-10 lbs ish.
Any advise on proper way to torque? Chime in
Plan to drive today and re-torque thurs.
I'm using the set screw type outer lock nut.
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cornbinder
Tuesday April 03 2012
cornbinder
Registered Member #869
Joined: Monday November 05 2007
Location: buena park
Posts: 642
Dues paying member of Scouts West
77traveler wrote ...

New Timken bearings and races
Re-use oil seal. Looks new and soft.
This time regular hi temp bearing grease.
Torque to a grunt back off then tighten about 5-10 lbs ish.
Any advise on proper way to torque? Chime in
Plan to drive today and re-torque thurs.
I'm using the set screw type outer lock nut.

I've always used this "old school" technique...Jack up front end
-after bearings are packed tighten the axle nut (hand tighten first with the socket in your hand) till snug.
-with socket and wrench attached spin the tire clockwise as you slowly tighten the nut (I like to tighten till the tire can only spin a quarter to half way around)....
-back nut off a tad and repeat previous step.
-add setscrews and your done! Open beer and chug!


1978 scout II
Fully rebuilt 345
727 and dana 20 transfer case
dana 44 front w/456 gears and ARB
dana 44 rear w/456 gears and detroit
spring under for now with 4" lift springs and 33's
10,000 pound winch in front w/custom bumpers and sliders
Full cage
my scout, once ready for a junkyard, now ready for a jeep
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75scout
Wednesday April 04 2012
brad spears

Registered Member #835
Joined: Friday September 14 2007
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 1704
Dues paying member of Scouts West
John,
I find this on the BP awhile back & have used this technique the last several times I've put mine back together. I actually printed it & taped it to the fridge in the garage.

Front wheel bearing adjustment procedure.
This page is a chapter in the book Steering and Suspension.
The shop-manual procedure for adjusting the front wheel bearings (with the double hex locking nuts) is as follows:

Use a 2-1/16" spindle nut socket to tighten the inner nut to 30 ft-lb, while rotating the hub/rotor. This is to seat the bearings.

Back the inner nut off 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn.

Install the flat-washer and the second (locking) nut, and torque this second nut to 125-150 ft-lb.

======================

The outer nut with the set-screws (as used with the Auto-Matic and Lock-o-Matic hublocks) does not require as much final torque -- as it relies on the set screws engaging in a slotted tab-washer to prevent their loosening.

Brad
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77 traveler
Wednesday April 04 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Thanks. Ill try that when i re-torque.
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Dealbreaker74
Wednesday April 04 2012
Registered Member #1693
Joined: Saturday May 15 2010
Location: Monrovia, CA
Posts: 45
Dues paying member of Scouts West
You sound like a guy that has a good grip on the details, so you'll probably be ok with the advice given so far. Only other thing that comes to mind is a spun race in the hub. Don't ask me how I know about this...But you don't want to over-do the torque. That's what caused my issue. Make sure the races are tight. They are right when they need to be tapped into place, or knocked out from the back with a hammer and drift. If they aren't tight, they'll spin and eat up the hub.
Tell us how it goes!
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77 traveler
Wednesday April 04 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Spun race? Yes!!! Inner spun 2 times. Both once. Trashed the hub both times. 3rd time the race spun but still had to be tapped in and out.
It was still better then my other three hubs in my parts pile.
Sooo....
I Grabed a punch a BFH and hit the race seat in the hub about 6 times. Loaded the race with green loctite. Drove it into place.
And Whola! CR@PTASTIC!!! Race all tight. (let's see how long it lasts)

"Don't over torque" just spin thewheel tighten to 30ft/lbs. Back of 1/4 turn and set it.

As a side note: I'm looking for 2 good hubs anyone got spares they want to part with?

Thanks again everyone.
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Dealbreaker74
Wednesday April 04 2012
Registered Member #1693
Joined: Saturday May 15 2010
Location: Monrovia, CA
Posts: 45
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Ok, so you've got an advanced degree in Garagetronics. So you might be interested in this...One thing that got me over the hump for a few months was to either dimple the outside of the race with a punch, or weld dots equally spaced around the outside perimeter. 6 or 8 will do. My neighbor had a stick of 3/32" brass electrode for the buzz box. This was actually his old school remedy and it seemed to work. When I could afford new hubs I junked them, but they were still holding up...
Since then i sort of sneak up on the torque. I usually do the 30 ft-lbs while spinning the wheel, then back it way off and set it really light. Tight enough that there is no lateral play in the bearing, but I don't bury it. Then I go for a short drive (I leave the 4WD part of the hub off during this phase). Jack it back up, rock the top and bottom of the wheel (camber directions) and maybe cinch it a touch more if there's play. You could go around the block again at this point, or lock it off and button things up if it feels good.
Like you, I've trashed a couple hubs. It ruins your day, so this has been my method the last few years.
Hope you work it out!
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77 traveler
Thursday April 05 2012
Registered Member #828
Joined: Wednesday September 05 2007
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 401
Dues paying member of Scouts West
Update:
Last night I backed off the nut spun tire and torqued to 30ft/lbs then back off 1/4 turn. This process resulted in more wiggle than I liked so with the socket in hand I spun and tightened till the wiggle was gone. The nut is about as tight as I can turn it with one hand. Locked it down and buttoned it up. Guess it's going to have to do. I'll double check for play before I head to Ensenada next Friday.
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